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   nature and rural life
Orange, Sérignan du Comtat, Rasteau, Bollène

Departure : training begins at Orange with the ST Eutrope Hill Health Circuit.

A few kilometres by car, and you are the Harmas of Jean-Henri Fabre, in Sérignan du Comtat. Scholar, painter, musician, poet and philosopher, Jean-Henri Fabre (1823-1915) is better known in Japan and the United States than in France. In the house admirably well-preserved by the Entomological Laboratory of the National Museum of Natural History you will discover in the work room the huge Herbarium and the collection of ammonites, sea and earth shells, fossils, minerals and birds nests assembled by J-H Fabre. You will be surprised by the 300 water colours (amongst the 700 finished) of the Mushrooms from the region.
You will like the tranquillity and the “wild” aspect of the garden where all the plants collected by the remarquable naturalist are carefully listed.

A few minutes by a car to reach Rasteau, a village famous for its natural sweet wine. A stop at the Wine Growers Museum : old agricultural implements, a collection of 2000 bottles, history of vine, video programme about the Côtes du Rhône and Châteauneuf du Pape wines, a visit that ends naturally enough, in the wine tasting cellar. Botanical walk (6 kms) to discover this original meeting point between the Mediterranean flora (evergreen oak groves) and the sub mediterranean flora (white oak groves) ; Piebresson track, St Didier hillock, Serre de la Garde, Fire Road Font, des Laons and back to Rasteau.
End your stop in Rasteau by a picnic on the bank of the Ouvèze.

A 15 minutes, car trip to reach the troglodytic village near Bollène, last stopping place which will satisfy the curious archaeologists, and paleontologists. The Barry plateau was a defense and observation point for the Gauls, the Greeks, and then the Romans. The village, hollowed out of the rock and abandoned at the end of the last century is astonishing; facing the sun, and entirely protected from the Mistral wind, it has a magnificient view of the Rhône Valley and the Cevennes hills.
Return to Orange.



Apt, Gargas, Saint Saturnin d’Apt, Rustrel, Gignac, Viens, St Martin de Castillon, Caseneuve, Saignon

A knapsack loaded with cool drinks, shoes and clothing you won’t mind getting stained with ochre are your best equipment for this day in the region around Apt.

Gargas composed of 22 scattered hamlets, is an important geologic site (Gargasian layer of the Lower Cretaceous) with its ochre quarries still in use, although most of them have been transformed to house mushroom beds…. If you’re guided by curiosity and a sweet tooth, stop at the St Denis confectionary where you can taste the candied fruit that are made there.



Saint Saturnin d’Apt has kept vestiges of its 3 fortified ramparts, of its castle and chapel (under restoration), as well as of a fortified gate, the Portalet, and of several wind-mills. Admire the panoramic view from the top of St Saturnin, go through the village with its Portail Ayguier (1420), its fine fountains in the Provencal style and town mansions with sculpted pediments (XVIIth century) and continue towards Rustrel.
The town wall was formerly a XVIIth century castle and is still flanked by three handsome towers. Make a detour to the ruins of the Priory of St Julien, to the church of Saint Romain, to Saint Roch chapel and to Notre Dame des Anges near the old iron factory, before taking the road that leads to the “Colorado Provençal”. Here the exploiting of ochre quarries from 1871 to 1930 has given rise to an extraordinary coloured landscape. Several footpath go through it.

Proceed to Gignac (XIIth century Romanesque church) before making a stop in Viens. The village, spiralled around a rocky peak, will charm lovers of Romanesque art with its church and handsome houses near the Porte Neuve. The view is superb : on the one hand the Luberon, on the other Alps with the Mountain of Lure.
St Martin de Castillon formely housed a convent of Bendictine nuns. There are also vestiges of the castrum, a Romanesque church, restored in the XIXth century, and two chapels : St Placide and the Pénitents Blancs (White Friars).

On the way to Caseneuve, make a stop in front the largest Oratory in Provence (righ hand side of the mad), built in the XIXth century, with the stones from the former chapel of Notre Dame des Aumades. The polychrome Christ was executed by journeymen touring France after their apprenticeship. In Caseneuve, visit the church, restored in the XVIIIth century, admire the vestiges of its ramparts and discover the sulphur spring in the Vallon de Bassis.

At last stop before returning to Apt : Saignon which dominates the Valley Calavon. The village is a natural stronghold and its more distinguished houses are nestled between two rocks, one of them carrying the vestiges of the castel, the other the very fine church of Notre Dame (XIIth century)

Return to Apt…Where, after this lovely day, you’ll want to try its famous candied fruit!

 



Malaucène, Entrechaux, Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, Brantes, Savoillan, Sault

A day for cooling off, with « bathing stop » in the Ouvèze and Toulourenc rivers on the northern foothills of the Ventoux. Begin with a walk through Malaucène : its ramparts and old mansions (XVIth to XVIIIth century), its fountains and washhouses, its clock tower (1539) and its superb Romanesque church with a Gothic portal. On the road leading up to the summit of the Ventoux, the Groseau spring and its coll surrounding were already spotted by Pope Clément V for his summer meditations. Notre Dame du Groseau Chapel is the only vestige of a vaste series of fortified constructions.

Where the road forks, turn right and discover the keep and ruins of Entrechaux Castle on its rocky peak. The village itself contains medieval treasures : the Saint André, Notre Dame de Nazareth and Saint Laurent chapels. On its outskirts, admire the Roman St Michel bridge crossing the Ouvèze river (idela for bathing) and two prehistoric sites. “Masque” Cave and the cave dwellings in the Ouvèze gorges.

Cross the Toulourenc river and turn right (D40) to reach Saint Léger du Ventoux via the Col de Veau (328m). Or, if you’re athletic type and equipped with water footwear, you can climb down into the gorges and wade or swim up the Toulourenc…

At St Léger, nestled at the foot of the Ventoux, admire the bridge over the Toulourenc, St Basile Chapel (1777) and the copious “La Pascale” spring.

Proceed to Brantes, suspended over the Toulourenc, and discover the ruins of its feudal castle, the paved streets and vaulted passageways, the church (1684) and the splendid view of the north side of Mont Ventoux. Several craftsman have set up their workshop (pottery, faïence, weaving, iron-work) on this marvellous spot.

Further on you reach Savoillan, an Alpine village on the left bank of the Toulourenc.

The very handsome St Agricol farm has become an experimental center, at the outset for growing lavender and, later on, for aromatic plants and flowers and vegetables as well. This farm is also equipped as a rural tourist center and with accommodations for hikers and horseback riders who whish to discover this beautiful valley.
And if you’re found of honey, go to the Ramel farm on the road to Montbrun…..

Return via Aurel and Sault and through the Gorges of the Nesque river to Carpentras.



Apt, Gordes, Saint-Pantaléon, Bonnieux

Apt, the first stop, is above all a delicious walk in the Public Garden, a real « folly » :water everywhere, fountains and miniature grottes, fine loftly trees and miniatures ones. Amateurs of rare trees will admire the Asian Red Gingo-Canna, usually to be found near Buddhistic temples, and the Canadian False Acacia.

The second stop is Gordes, the Bories Village : an astonishing demonstration of our ancestors’ rural dwelling. These dry-stone constructions are a testimony of a traditional art of building, the amazing work of men who created an original type of architecture, using poor materials and simple method. The Bories Village has been turned into a Museum of Rural Habitation.

Turn off to the right towards St Pantaléon – your 3rd stop- where you can admire the Bouillons press, an antique olive press of huge dimensions and the Stained-Glass Museum.
Cross the Luberon towards Bonnieux, last stop of the day, where, after a walk in the superb Cedar Forest, you will visit the Bread Museum; in this ancestral house, you will rediscover the taste of bread of yester year, the smell of pure wheaten flour, the comforting warmth of the bakehouse, as so many pictures and reminders of a world of traditions, doomed to disappear.

Back to Apt.













Sault, Aurel, Saint-Trinit, Saint-Christol

In July when lavender lights up the plateaus, discover Giono’s “country of the sky”. On a Wednesday, stroll through the market at Sault : side by side, you’ll find its monuments (the Romanesque church, chapels and former convents, the town museum, the ruins of the castle and ramparts) and the produce of the region (nougat, honey, lavender, spelt, aromatic herbs, choice sausages and meats, lime, blossoms, goat cheese, leg of lamb, truffles..).

Aurel (800m), one of the most attractive perched villages of Vaucluse which painters continue to celebrate, has a massive Romanesque church (XIIth century). Its castle, now in ruins, is survived by a square tower, its walls pierced with loopholes.

Go on to St Trinit, a tiny village huddled around its XIIth century church. In this rural setting such a perfect balance of volumes and harmonious unity come as a surprise. Horseback riding and ranging out from here across the Albion plateau are ideal ways of discovering its spelt fields and herds of goal.

St Christol d’Albion houses the garnison of the missile base of the Albion plateau but the village was founded in 1119 by Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Saint André of Villeneuve lez Avignon who built the Romanesque church. This church contains a profusion of sculped plants and animals constituting an ornamental setting unique in Provence. Near Saint Christol, discover the avens ( natural pits formed by the infiltration of the rain water) of La Cervi and Autran, and try the local farm produce : lavender honey, spelt salad, mountain apples and goat cheese.

Return to Sault via the Brouville road, with several stops for the panoramic view.

 

  
Carpentras, Mazan, Villes-sur-Auzon, Sault

This excursion is both a nature discovery and an enchantment, with one of the most beautiful panoramas in France before you : wild and imposing sites of the « Giant of Provence » and of the Sault Valley.

1st stop : Mazan Museum. In what was once the White Penitents ‘ Chapel, you will find archaeological, historical, numismarical, ornithological, geological treasures, as well as a collection of weapons, fossils, religious art and a magnificient collection of ancient agrarian implements. One part is reserved for local artists and craftsmen. Entrance is free and you will get a warm welcome.

2nd stop : Villes s/Auzon. Admire the beauty of the countryside which combines the greenness of the hills with the yellows and rich reds of the ochre soil.

Take the road to Monieux and Sault by the Nesque Gorges. The routes passes a succession of ledges and tunnels. At each bend, a different view of the sheer cliffs and the rocky needles. Stop at the Castelleras Belvedere (800m) which overhangs the torrent 200m below, with in the background, the imposing mass of Mont Ventoux, and in the foreground the beautiful rock of Cire. The mountain is pock-marked with grottoes in which many prehistoric objects have been found. If you are a good walker, when the river is dry (June to October), you can walk along its bed to discover the Nesque Gorges in another way!

Last stop before returning, let yourself be tempted by the wild beauty of Sault. Village, like a balcony above the Sault Valley, it overlooks a country-side of lavender, of pubescent oaks and sweet-smelling scrubland. The months of july and august offer you a scented symphony of lavender blue, yellow wheat, green forest, and the deep red of ploughed land.

Back to Carpentras by the Gabelle Road via Flassan and Bédoin.

 

   earth and fire
Apt, Roussillon, Lacoste, Buoux

Apt country has inherited a fine and long tradition for pottery accounted for by high quality days and the richness of the coloured earth.
The Apt Museum displays the finest Castellet and Apt earthenware (XVIIIth century) and original XIVth to XVIth century pottery, traditional local earthenware ceramics, the wonderful collection Pharmaceutical Pots from the Apt hospital and the works of the greatest potters, Léon Sagy amongst them. Potters’ workshops are open to the public. Some, like Jean Faucon’s produce the same shapes as in the XVIIIth century.


Pass through Gargas to arrive in Roussillon : half a day to fall in love with Roussillon, an ochre village built on Mont Rouge (335 meters altitude) : fabulous cliffs of blood and gold, deep gullies, spectacular looking sharp multicoloured needles.
From the village admire the Giant’s Causeway and Fairies’ valley : brilliantly-hued breathtaking cliffs.
The light is the narrow street is special : coloured reflections from the ochre coloured walls. The small lively village square, with its outdoor cafés; is a meeting place for the “Roussillonais” and the“strangers”, a symposium of arts and letters.
The Town Hall and the house opposite (XVIIIth century), the church (XVIIth century), altered in the XVIth century, stucco baptismal font XVIIth century, the tower of the old ramparts, a glimpse of green gardens between two ochre walls, the esplanade and its panoramic table….make Roussillon an unforgettable village.
To know more about the ochres, take the “sentier des Aiguilles” (1km in 1 hour) which weaves its way through the old quarries and the undergrowth.
Several noticeboards explain the importance of ochre in Apt country, the nature of the geological formation process, how it is exploited and transformed.

Lacoste is worth a detour with its old Stone Quarries. Discover the Falaises de Buoux via Bonnieux.

   organs and campaniles
 
Avignon, Châteauneuf de Gadagne, Le Thor, l’Isle S/Sorgue, Pernes les Fontaines, Vedène

Plan one day for Avignon and another for its region.
It was Rabelais who already called Avignon “the ringing town” where, every days, two or three hundred bells could be heard….Begin with “the golden organ” of Notre Dame des Doms, the only one of its kind in France, built by the Italian organ-builder Piantanida (1820). The mechanism and pipes are original. The organ-case and instrumental section are classed. Outside the church, listen to the most prestigious carillon in Vaucluse with its 35 bells.

Inside the Popes’s Palace, the Silver bell once used to pace life at the papal court. Have a look Place Campana and admire the artistic contemporary clock by Roger Bezombes, then walk down the Place de l’Horloge to see and listen the famous Jack of Avignon. Since 1472, the two figures have undergone several changes. Their present guise dates back to 1838 : a soldier and his spouse holding a rose.
St Agricol’s church was founded in the VIIth century and was considerably remodelled in the XVth century. The organ in the Romantic style (1862) was built by Barker and Verschneider. The instrumental section (3manual keyboards, 1 pedal board and 29 stops) is classed. Nearby, the Palais du Roure, houses not only the piano which belonged to Stuart Mill but also remarkable collection of bells from various periods. They decorate the walls of the courtyard as well as the monumental staircase and several of the rooms inside… At 16 rue St Etienne, Monsieur Graugnard who specialises in old clocks, automats, barometers and whistling birds will perhaps share his secrets with you….
Beyond the pedestrian area, go as far as the rue Carreterie and admire the last vestige of the Augustinian Cloister, its bell tower crowned with an unusual XVth century campanile. Today is leans slightly (due to the 1909 earthquake) like the tower of Pisa…A few steps away, at 12 rue Camapne, the violin-maker François Curty tunes his instruments, old and new.

Leave Avignon by the road to Apt (N100), Châteauneuf de Gadagne, set into the hillside like an amphitheatre, is still buoyed by its bell tower and elegant XVIIIth century campanile.
In the valley, le Thor is protected by the Porte de Douzabas. Restored in the XIXth century, it is surmounted by a square tower and crowned with a bulbe-shaped campanile.

In Isle sur la Sorgue, called the “Venice of the Comtat”, yield to the charm of Notre Dame des Anges. The bell tower outside, built in 1538 and topped by a campanile is older than the church, itself a XVIIth century master piece. It houses two organs-cases of guilded wood; one is dummy, the other was built by Le Royer and remodelled in the Italian manner by Mentasi in 1830, both are classed. The two manual keyboards, the pedal board and the 16 stops have restored recently.

Now take the road leading to Carpentras and stop at Pernes les Fontaines. Here, water from 37 fountains continues to pace the life of this little town. The massive silhouette of the Tour de l’Horloge (Xith century) is topped by a graceful campanile (XVIIIth century). The church Notre Dame de Nazareth with its remarkable interior decoration displays its organ in a green and old organ-case, typical of the XVIIIth century Provencal organ-building. Built by Duvivier (1593), Violetti (1716) and Antoine Gibert (1771), the organ (2 keyboards, 1 pedal board in the French manner and 17 stops) is classed and was restored in 1978 by Alain Sals.

Return to Avignon by way of Vedène where the bell turret with its forged-iron cage tops a square bell tower (XVIIIth century).


Pertuis, Grambois, Cucuron, Lourmarin, Lauris, Cadenet, Villelaure

Pertuis : in St Nicolas Church, rebuilt in the XVIth century in the late Gothic style, admire the organ whose construction spreads from the XVIIth through to the XIXth century. Of the earliest organ by Pierre Marchand (1601) 5 stops remain ; they are among the oldest in France. In the course of the XVIIIth century and the XIXth century it acquired 3 manual keyboards, 1 pedal board with 30 keys and 34 stops.

After driving through La Tour d’Aigues, with a glimpse at he superb façade of its Renaissance Castle, you will reach Grambois on its abrupt slope. Admire the decorative campanile which dates from 1870.

Go to Cucuron by way of Saint Martin de la Brasque and Sannes and pass through the porched bell tower of Notre Dame de Beaulieu. Inside the church, discover another early organ signed by Pierre Marchand (1614) and rebuilt by Dugès in 1786. A large number of the original pipes remained intact after changes effected by Bormes and Mentasi in the XIXth century. The present day restoration work conforms with the specifications by Dugès ; one manual keyboard of 51 stops, one pedal board with 12 notes and 12 stops.

In Lourmarin, with its bell tower and splendid castle, stroll through the narrow picturesque streets where fountains slash.

Continue towards Lauris, set on a promontory above the Durance river. The church has a campanile delicately wrought in the shape of a bulb. Inside the church, the partially restored organ is a small early XIXth century instrument composed of a manual keyboard, a pedal board in the French manner and 9 stops.

Following the Durance upstream, pass through Cadenet on its rocky spur and admire the church dominated by a fine Provencal bell tower (1538) and a XIXth century octagonal campanile. Inside, the organ is the work of the italianizing organ-builder, Victor Fenant, and dates from the beginning of the XIXth century. Recently restored, the pipes are in a part original. The organ is composed of 10 stops, a manual keyboard and a pedal board in the Italian manner.

Before returning to Pertuis, stop in Villelaure where the campanile (end of XVIIIth century – beginning XIXth century) near the remains of the XVIth century castle will not leave you indifferent.



  
Bollène, Visan, Valréas, Grillon, Richerenches

Bollène : in the old town, the collegiale chuch of St Martin, famous for its splendid panorama of the Lez and Drôme Valley, harbours and organ unknown origin whose pipes date partially from the XVIIth to the XVIIIth century and whose mechanism goes back to the XIXth century. The instrumental section is classed and its composed of two keyboards, a pedal board and 22 stops. Admire the finest craftsmanship of the XVIIIth century iron-wrought campanile. Its crowns the hexagonal tower over the chapel of the convent of the Sisters of the Holy Sacrament.

Pass below the imposing castle of Suze la Rousse on your way to the Papal enclave and your first stop there is Visan. The bell tower and the architectonic cage topping it date from 1600.

In Valréas, the splendid Romanesque church harbours an organ in the French classic style with Provencal influence, built in the XVIIIth century by Jean Eustache de Marseille. The polychrome organ-case, built earlier in the Renaissance style, is classed. Also classed is the instrumental section, restored in the XIXth century by Moitessier and by E.Mülheisen.


 
   water

L’Isle sur Sorgue, le Thor, Velleron, Fontaine de Vaucluse

L’Isle sur Sorgue, the « Provençal Venice », is the departure point for this tour, the whole town is washed by the clear waters of the Sorgues river, regulated by the slow rhythm of the old mill wheels. Do not miss the site of the Partition of the Waters.

Le Thor, admire the church, like a ship aground on the Sorgue. Those found of sport can go canoeing, 1,5km from the village, on the D16 (road to Valayans/Entraigues), discover the Thouzon Grottoes : a real underground jewel. The 230 meter-long gallery has many groups of fistulous stalactites which are extraordinarily slender and delicate. The guided visit (30 min) can be made quite easily along a very practicable path, with a lighting that shows up the underground wonders.

In Velleron, another aspect of water is to be discovered : the fisherman’s. Choose your spot in the shade under the old stone bridges, and during the season, of course, bait the fish….

The last stop of the day is a must at Fontaine de Vaucluse, above all the source, the spectacular way it gushes out leaves scientists unable to believe their eyes, but is a pleasure for amateurs.
The Speleology Museum relates the arduous work entailed in underground discovery. In a totally reconstructed setting, you will make your way into the bowels of the earth : swallow hole, underground river and waterfall, prehistoric frescoes….
The speleologist Norbert Casteret’s amazing collection (400 mineral concretions) will fascinate you.
A visit to the “Vallis Clausa” Paper Mills will show you how our ancestors controlled water to make paper : everything is working…..just as it was in the XIVth century!

Back to Isle sur la Sorgue.

   
Carpentras, Pernes les Fontaines, l’Isle s/Sorgue, Fontaine de Vaucluse

Almost unknown, the Carpentras Aqueduct is worth a detour : built in the XVIIIth century by Antoine d’Allemand, today it is intact and majestic, just outside Carpentras, an original work of art integrated into the natural surrounding, like a theatre set, melancholy and useless. A length of 10 km underground, above ground, then along 631 meters and 48 arches, an enormous bridge to cross the Auzon Valley, the Aqueduct brought water to Carpentras from 1745 to 1893. Remark the slenderness of the arcades, barely 3 meters wide, and walk along the footpath by the banks of the Auzon.

Pernes les Fontaines is your second stop : it used to be the capital of the Comtat long before Capentras, and its innumerable fountains inside the walls are there to be discovered. When the Font de Bouvery source was discovered in the XVIIIth century, the city decided to endow the 4 quarters of the town with a monumental fountain : octagonal in shape with a richly decorated 3,20 meters base. La Fontaine du Cormoran , le Grand’ Font or Fontaine Reboul and the Fontaine du Gigot are the city’s finest ornaments.

L’Isle sur Sorgue, the « Provençal Venice », is the departure point for this tour, the whole town is washed by the clear waters of the Sorgues river, regulated by the slow rhythm of the old mill wheels. Do not miss the site of the Partition of the Waters.

The last stop of the day is a must at Fontaine de Vaucluse, above all the source, the spectacular way it gushes out leaves scientists unable to believe their eyes, but is a pleasure for amateurs.
The Speleology Museum relates the arduous work entailed in underground discovery. In a totally reconstructed setting, you will make your way into the bowels of the earth : swallow hole, underground river and waterfall, prehistoric frescoes….
The speleologist Norbert Casteret’s amazing collection (400 mineral concretions) will fascinate you.
A visit to the “Vallis Clausa” Paper Mills will show you how our ancestors controlled water to make paper : everything is working…..just as it was in the XIVth century!

Back to Carpentras.


   
Vaison la Romaine, Séguret, Gigondas, Lafare, Beaumes de Venise

Vaison la Romaine, like all civilized cities, had its Baths : the ruins evoke the hot room, the tepid room, the changing room, the large colonnaded peristyle, the garden next to it and the pool. Marble cornices, columns and capitals were excavated around 1920 and prove the quality of life in this “Roman pearl”.
The Roman bridge which crosses the Ouvèze, where its bed is deeply embanked has kept its original aspect in spite of the 1616 flood which destroyed the original parpet. For the best view, walk a little way upstream, on the right bank, along the road to St-Marcellin.

Séguret is your next stop. Famous for its “living” crèche, Séguret has a magnificent XVIIIth century fountain to be discovered : la Fontaine des Mascarons and a public wash-house are worth a detour.

Gigondas, famous for its wines, also knows how to control the water in its many fountains! Fill up your water bottles and discover the little Roman Bridge leading to Prébayon. Recently restored by APARE, this single arched bridge crosses the picturesque gorge of Trignon and is near the Malézieux source believed to be miraculous as it is said it can restore sight to the blind.

Lafare, in the Dentelles de Montmirail, offers unusual refreshment, the St Christophe waterfall. On the way to Gigondas, look out for the Salette trickle of water, it runs through a gorge which is worth a barefooted visit. In the first part, a series of reaches and waterfalls leads to the upper basin at the foot of a fall : an icy refreshing dip guaranteed !

Going towards Beaumes de Venis, make a stop at Rocalinaud Rock, a curious rounded block of sandstone wom down by the Mistral and by the man, it can be easily climbed to have a look at the steps and rooms hollowed out of the rock, as well as the big ayguières (water reservoirs).

At Beaumes de Venise, famous for its “Muscat” go and drink the paradoxically reputed water from the XVIIth century fountain.

Back to Vaison la Romaine via Vacqueyras.